Arrived in Lijiang – time to go!
It seems that no sooner I have arrived, it’s time to go again – that’s life on the road I guess.
Lijiang is a total shock to the senses. Busy alley ways, hoards of Chinese tourists buying everything from cowboy hats to Yak meat and all manner of trinkets. Just finding my way through the old town to my hostel took an hour from when I rode in to Lijiang. After camping out in the peace and quiet of the mountains of the Yi people, I felt a little hemmed in :o)
Lijiang street
Getting my bike through the cobbled street alley ways was a challenge and a half as I seemed to be the only one going the wrong way.
Lijiang Town
I came to Lijiang to see the Naxi Orchestra run by local legend Xuen Ke. Xuen’s father worked with the sedan chair travelling, pistol carrying botanist, Joseph Rock. Xuen’s father helped Rock study Naxi culture and language way back in the 1930s.
Some people believe James Hilton would have based some of his ideas for Shangri-La from Joseph Rock’s National Geographic articles on Zhongdian, in Yunnan. However, ‘Doc Rock’ didn’t write any National Geographic articles on Zhongdian. He did write about Zhongdian and Deqin in academic work though, but this wasn’t published until 1947 – after Lost Horizon was published.
So if James Hilton never knew of Zhongdian why in 2002 did it have it’s name changed to Shangri La? Of course, Hilton would have read lots of books by many different authors for his research – not just academic work or Nat Geo articles from Rock’s Sichuan work.
Naxi Orchestra
Xuen believes he knows where Hilton’s Shangri-La is based but tells me Hilton had never been there in person. I’m meeting Xuen this evening with the video camera to find out more!
Tomorrow I leave early on muddy roads for Lugu Lake to the north west and then on to Muli where Rock spent much of his time. Interestingly I’m travelling in the same season as Rock did when he first came to Yunnan, in the rainy season! I hope the trails aren’t too bad. I’m looking forward to meeting the Mosu people of the Lugu area, the last practising matriarchal society in the world!
After a couple of weeks I hope to make it to Zhongdian, the town Beijing decided to rename ‘Shangri-La’ in 2002. James Hilton’s heavenly paradise or just tacky marketing? What I do know is that the location Xuen mentioned last night, is not Zhongdian – how exciting!
Storms forecast for the next week – great!
View Crossing the Nu Jian Shan in a larger map
Hay mate – really wishing I was with you. Had another look at the Gulf2gulf and am feeling that bug again. I love the photo with the guy i the field \england lost!?’
From your lastest entry Rain, wet, cold – bring it on! – take care (somehow part of me is with you)
Tim
Tim, it dumped it down last night in Lugu. Never heard thunder or seen lighting like it! The road in to Lugu was demolished and is being rebuilt – the bike and I got thru though, had to port my gear for 150m. I think I’ve been lucky with the monsoon so far – looks like it might get rough now although the sun has just come out – yay!
A couple of times over the last days I had that “it’s all in your head” feeling! Wish you were here mate, speshly when the going gets tough.
Hello David,
I am sitting next to David Gorton in the office. He showed us your website today and it’s so amazing!
The beautiful photos here remind me of the good times I had in Yunnan Province, especially Tiger Leaping Gorge near Lijiang & Meri Snow Mountain in Deqin!
Have a great trip & take care :)
Alice
Hey Alice, happy you’re enjoying the photos! If only my video editing were a patch on Mr Gorton’s!! Andy, glad you’re following – Burma’s shaping up! Hey Marg, hope all is well with you, yeah the climb was a challenge but the fantastic views and sunshine made it a dream. Thanks for the comments guys, really appreciate it!