Kharkorin to Tsetserleg
I set off into the rain and cold to a town called Hotont, a very small one shop town about 35km from Kharkorin, the ancient capital of Mongolia.
I took the customary photo of the Erd Zuu Khiid monastary and got off to a flying start. About 5 km in, the tracks split into several directions with no signs! Out came the compass and I tried to get a bearing but it was all very flat indeed so I just followed the most southerly route for 35km.
I noticed that I was following Telegraph poles and this began a long and tiring relationship with Dire Straights ‘Telegraph Road’ song. As you may know, the song goes on for several hours and it was killing me. I just couldn’t shake it, until one of my spokes pinged! The first rear spoke snapped in the mid day heat about 20 km from Hotont.
I unpacked the bike and swore a bit then figured I can’t do much except loosen the opposing side a little and ditch some weight – out went the tins of Tuna. I continued cautiously to my first days camp, on the side of the road next to three Gers about 70 km from Kharkorin.
I put the tent up and relaxed in the shade, fixed up some food and watched two horsemen approach from the Gers. One of the guys shouted and waved in a not too friendly fashion, ‘here we go’ I thought – ‘I’m in the shit now, first night!
The older of the two grunted at me about 20m from my tent and made his horse go sideways up and down the hill side – neat trick I thought – may be I should do a wheelie or something to get some man points back?
They approached me and I showed them the video camera and they jumped from their horses and we introduced each other before I gave them a tour of my tent and gave them a werthers original toffee, friends forlife!
Next day I was up at 5am and made good pace to my first junction en route to Tsetserleg, a great feeling to see a road sign. Incidently the only sign on the whole trip.
More traffic joined me on this part of the trip. Families and friends were making their way the Nadaam festival to be held in the aimag capital that weekend.
I got to within 40km of Tsetserleg when ‘ping!!’,another 2 spokes snapped, that’s three! The wheel looked very sick and I unloaded and cursed a little before giving myself a verbal slapping and figuring out what to do next. I’m 40km from the nearest town and the back tyre is within 1/8th mm from the chainstay. I spun the wheel thinking of what to do.
May be telling the video camera would help? No, that’s just wasting time. I carefully tensioned all the remaining spokes as tightly as I could without over doing it and repacked, but this time putting all my tools to the front of the bike to redistribute the weight. I got on the bike an hour later and slowly turned the cranks.
Later that afternoon I was delighted to finally limp into Tsetserleg. I coasted into town and found a hotel, directly above a 24hr night club!
I set off into the rain and cold to a town called Hotont, a very small one shop town about 35km from Kharkorin, the ancient capital of Mongolia.
I took the customary photo of the Erd Zuu Khiid monastary and got off to a flying start. About 5 km in, the tracks split into several directions with no signs! Out came the compass and I tried to get a bearing but it was all very flat indeed so I just followed the most southerly route for 35km.
Erd Zuu Khiid Monastary
I noticed that I was following Telegraph poles and this began a long and tiring relationship with Dire Straights ‘Telegraph Road’ song. As you may know, the song goes on for several hours and it was killing me. I just couldn’t shake it, until one of my spokes pinged! The first rear spoke snapped in the mid day heat about 20 km from Hotont.
I unpacked the bike and swore a bit then figured I can’t do much except loosen the opposing side a little and ditch some weight – out went the tins of Tuna. I continued cautiously to my first days camp, on the side of the road next to three Gers about 70 km from Kharkorin.
I put the tent up and relaxed in the shade, fixed up some food and watched two horsemen approach from the Gers. One of the guys shouted and waved in a not too friendly fashion, ‘here we go’ I thought – ‘I’m in the shit now, first night!
The older of the two grunted at me about 20m from my tent and made his horse go sideways up and down the hill side – neat trick I thought – may be I should do a wheelie or something to get some man points back?
They approached me and I showed them the video camera. The two riders jumped from their horses and we introduced each other before I gave them a tour of my tent and gave them a werthers original toffee, friends for life!
Next day I was up at 5am and made good pace to my first junction en route to Tsetserleg, a great feeling to see a road sign. Incidentally the only sign on the whole trip.
More traffic joined me on this part of the trip. Families and friends were making their way the Nadaam festival to be held in the aimag capital that weekend.
I got to within 40km of Tsetserleg when ‘ping!!’, another 2 spokes snapped, that’s three! The wheel looked very sick and I unloaded and cursed a little before giving myself a verbal slapping and figuring out what to do next. I’m 40km from the nearest town and the back tyre is within 1/8th mm from the chainstay. I spun the wheel thinking of what to do.
Anyone bring a free hub tool?
May be telling the video camera would help? No, that’s just wasting time. I carefully tensioned all the remaining spokes as tightly as I could without over doing it and repacked, but this time putting all my tools to the front of the bike to redistribute the weight. I got on the bike an hour later and slowly turned the cranks.
Later that afternoon I was delighted to finally limp into Tsetserleg. I coasted into town and found a hotel, directly above a 24hr night club!
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on Thursday, August 2nd, 2007 at 17:33 and is filed under Mongolia.
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