It’s all downhill to the Gobi!
Dried up river coming out of Tstetserleg
With three days rest and make shift repairs done on the back wheel it was time to put those broken spokes to the test and cycle over the top of the Arkhangai mountains to the Gobi some 400 km away.
After 40km two young herders on horseback rode alongside me to the town of Bulgan. We talked in our own languages for about an hour not having a clue what the other was on about but it really didn’t matter, we seemed to just understand each other. Mind you, the conversation wasn’t the most complex; “Bayongor this way?” “You live here?” Do these horses bite?” – You know, that kind of thing.
- Herders; Bulgan
Feeling confident in my map reading skills I rode straight through Bulgan, and then got lost!
A classic situation, two tracks were in front of me, one to the south and one to east. Neither tracks sign posted.
Well, I knew I didn’t want to go east but the trail to the south continued for maybe 200m past the junction and then stopped. I noticed telegraph poles heading east and Mark Knopfler once again started going on about “a man on a track, walking thirty miles with a sack on his back”.
Before the man had “put down his load where he thought it was the best” I decided to go east and take a gamble. The gamble paid off after a small pass revealed a beautiful valley to the south that I could ride into.
- Red Pill or Blue Pill
I followed this grass valley for two days, riding through three storms, sharing my tent with a small family during a rain shower, being offered domestic cat (as well as freshly shot Marmot – a large grey animal which apparently carries the plague) and living on dry noodles and yak cheese which I actually REALLY like!
Mares milk isn’t too bad either once you get used to it – it’s alcoholic when fermented and I must say it’s the first time I’ve ridden down a pass a teeny bit drunk – I was a legend on the bike from what I can remember ;o)
I set up camp near to a familty and their Gers on my third night. Their kids came over to play with the bike and offered me cheese and tea which was really nice. I gave them all little Koalas (top idea Chris!) and I was one of the family for the night!
Inside a Ger
I got to look inside their Gers and see how they live. Kids from all ages share the Ger with their parents, Grandparents and siblings. Mum was busy cooking, Dad looking after business deals and kids running the farm while the Grandparents milked the yaks outside.
The storms got a little worse and I was walking in only a T shirt and shorts, wet socks (my left shoe sole split) and so eventually I got a cold on the fourth day. My sinuses were very blocked up, to the point where my head really hurt and I stayed in my sleeping bag for most of the morning before getting restless and pushing on over the main pass in the afternoon.
Limping to Bayonghor with 6 snapped spokes!
The heavens opened and I was riding in thick mud and fog before long. A family waved me to their Ger after the pass and gave me warm milk which felt great and was much needed.
After several knee deep river crossings, 250 km, 5 snapped spokes (yep, the front went too!), the worst cold ever, a lost billy can and being followed by half a dozen wild horses I was super happy to see Bayonhongor in the background after my final pass.
Andy, tell Emma I’ve done a proper ending this time -just for her! I am currently in UB waiting for a flight to Beijing tomorrow and hopefully getting a flight to Sydders a little early – failing that I’ll stay in Beijing for a few days.
Hope you’re all well and see you soon, dave!
Mongolia Arkhangai Mountains RouteMap
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